Collar ahd cuff



April 22. 1924. 1,491,573

J. M. VAN HEUSEN COLLAR AND CUFF Filed Dec. 30 1922 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 6 l glvwewtoz April 22, 1924. 11,491,572

J.M.VAN HEUSEN COLLAR AND CUFF File 30, 1922 2 SheetSSheet 2 fatented Apr. 22, 192% JOHN M". VAN HEUSEN, OF ECSTGN, MASSACHUSETTS.

COLLAR AND CUFF.

Application filed December 30, 1922.

T aZZ whom it may concern Be l win that l, Jenn M. VAN HnUsn-N, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of lvlassachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars and Cuffs, of which the following .is a specification.

The present invention relates to improvements in collars and cuffs made of heavy fabric sucli, for example, as the multiple ply interwoven fabric, and the present application is a continuation in part of my three applications, Serial Nos. 507206, 512330 and 515982, filed Oct. 12, 1921, Nov. 2, 1921, and Nov. 17, 1921, respectively.

The binding of collars made of a single piece of heavy fabric, such as multiple ply interwoven fabric, presents a special problem, owing to the tl'iickness and stiffness of the fabric. It is not feasible to bind the edges of this fabric by turning the said edges twice on themselves and securing with stitches, since the thickness of the several layers of fabric which result from an edge formed in this manner, produces a bulge or welt on the inside edge of the collar which is unsightly and which has a tendency to chai'e the neck of the wearer. A collar thus hound its edges cannot be reversed withoutexposing the bound edge on the outside of the. collar. In making a collar of the type known as the stand-up collar, having tips or wings at the front portion thereof, it is particularly important that the inside edge of the collar be of pleasing appearance for the reason that in the wing portions of the collar this inside edge is exposed to view.

According to the present invention, the heavy fabric collar is provided with a binding made by integral thin extensions of the heavy fabric itself. More partlcularly, 1n the case of a multiple ply interwoven fabric, the fabric is provided with a divided edge which extends entirely around the collar blank and which can be t irned in and stitched to form the edge binding. Furthermore, the d 'ed edge, on either one side or on both sides of the fabric, is woven with a weave of the same or substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of t-he coll r, so that, when folded in and stitched, the fabric forming the divided edge will, on at least one side of the collar, or on both sides of the collar, present the same ap- Serial No. 609,785.

pearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

If the main portion of the collar blank is of multiple ply interwoven fabric, and if such a fabric is provided with a bifurcated or divided edge of single ply fabric of ordinary weave extending therefrom, the sin gle ply extensions forming the divided edge will present a somewhat different appearance from the main interwoven portion of the fabric, for the reason that the interweave of the multiple ply fabric is omitted in the single ply extension. It will be understood that in weaving a. multiple ply interwoven fabric, the plies are interwoven with each other by threads common to two or more plies, and that these interweave threads appear on the outside of the interwoven fabric in addition to the threads of the outer ply itself, while single ply extensions of ordinary weave present the appearance of a modified weave.

According to the present invention, the collar fabric is woven with one or both of the extensions forming the divided edge of a weave which presents the same or substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion, so that, when such edges are turned in and stitched, the collar will, on one side or on both sides present the same appearance both where the fabric is interwoven throughout and where the fabric is woven to form the edge binding. For example, the main portion of the collar blank ma be woven of three ply fabric, with the three plies interwoven, and the collar blank may have a bifurcated or divided edge made up of integral extensions, one or both of which are likewise interwoven with a similar inter-weave to that of the main interwoven portion. When the thin extension or extensions thus woven are turned in and stitched, the edge portion of the collar formed thereby will present the same appearance as the rest of the collar.

The present invention enables a folding or turn collar to be made of multiple ply interwoven fabric which is reversible and which presents the same appearance of the edge binding on both sides. This also applies to a collar of the stand-up type, it being obvious that this collar may be worn with either side thereof exposed to view.

My invention when applied to collars of the folding or turn down variety is of spedown portion.

' line.

so far as the edge binding of the collar is concerned, and enables a reversible collar to be thus produced which may be identical in appearance on both sides and in which the edges of the collar where bound do not prei sent any substantially difierent appearance from that of the main interwoven portion of the collar.

In folding or turn down collars of my present invention both the neckband portion and the turn down portion are made up for the most part of heavy integral fabric, such as multiple ply interwoven fabric, and this portion of the fabric will give stiffness to both the neckband portion and the turn The main interwoven portion of the collar need not, however, conform in outline to the irregular outline of the collar, but it may be generally rectangular in shape on both sides of the fold The divided edge may, accordingly, have a width at certain parts of the collar greater than the width necessary for turning in the edge and stitching it to form the binding. In order to avoid a flimsy appearance of the collar where the main inter of the main interwoven portion.

In standing or stand-up collars of my present invention, the shape thereof when opened out flat, is approximately rectangular. This makes it possible for the interwoven portion, surrounded by the divided edge portion, to be approximately rectangular also, and to extend close to the upper and lower edges of the collar and, with the exception of the tabs, close to the end edges also.

The invention will be further described in connection with the accompanying drawings illustrative of certain embodiments thereof, in which,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a stand-up collar embodying my present invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the collar of Fig. 1 laid out fiat.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a strip of fabric from which the collar blanks may be cut.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged diagrammatical view of the weave of a three ply fabric which may be used in the construction of the collar.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged sectional View taken on the line 55 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged diagrammatical View showing another suitable weave.

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a stand-up collar with turn down wings.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of a folding or turn down collar embodying the present invention.

Fig. 10 is a plan view of a strip of fabric from which the collar blanks of the collar of Fig. 9 may be cut.

Fig. 11 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line 1111 of Fig. 9.

Fig. 12 is an enlarged sectional view showing a modification of the fabric of Fig. 11.

Fig. 13 is an enlarged diagrammatical view showing a modification of the weave illustrated in Fig. l.

The fabric of which the collar is made may, for example, be a three ply interwoven fabric or a four ply interwoven fabric with the main portion of the collar interwoven, that is, with the main portion made up of the three ply interwoven fabric or the four ply interwoven fabric. The collar illustrated in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive, is made up of the main portion 2 and the tabs 12, and

'is supplied with the usual buttonholes 13.

One suitable form of weave is illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5. As illustrated in these figures, the fabric is a three ply fabric having three series of warp threads 6, interwoven with weft threads 7 to form three separate plies, and two sets of interweave threads 5 and 8 for interweaving the middle ply with the upper and lower plies, respectively. The fabric is woven with a divided edge,

one part of which is of two ply interwoven fabric indicated at 9, and the other of single ply fabric 10. Owing to the presence of the same interweave in the two ply extension 9 and in the main three ply interwoven portion of the fabric, it will be evident that the extension 9 will present the same appearance as the main interwoven portion and will also have an increased degree of stifiness as compared with a single ply extension.

A suitable fabric from which the collar blank may be cut is illustrated in Fig. 3. The fabric illustrated is woven with rectangular portions, or approximately rectangular portions 2, one of which forms the greater portion of the collar blank. The outer edges 4: of the fabric are woven as divided edges, while the portions 3 at the ends of the interwoven portions 2 are woven with a tubular weave. One side of the tubua lar portion 3 and one side of the divided edges 4c are of two ply interwoven fabric as illustrated at 9 in Figs. l and 5, while the other side of the tubular portions 3 and the other side of the divided edges 4 are of single ply fabric, as illustrated at 10 in Figs. 4; and 5. By cutting out the collar blank of the shape illustrated in Fig. 3, it will be seen that the collar blank has a divided edge entirely around it. This edge is then turned in and stitched, for example, as illustrated in Fig. 5, by two rows of stitching 11.

lit will thus be seen that the main portion of the collar is of three ply interwoven fabric, while the entire edge of the collar and the end tabs are of the two integral extensions of the heavy fabric, one of which is also a multiple ply interwoven fabric of the same appearance as the main interwoven portion.

Accordingly, although the collar may extend a short distance from the main interwoven portion, for example, at the parts indicated at 12 in Fig. 3, yet these extensions will on one side of the collar have the same appearance as the main interwoven portion and will have such a degree of stiffness due to the interweaving of one side of the fabric of the extensions. that the collar will be free from a flimsy appeara. co at these portions.

Reference will be made at this time to tie weave illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 13. It will be noted that the fabric illustrated in this figure is a three ply fabric, interwoven, of similar construction to that illustrated in Fig. 4. It will be noted, however, that the interweave thread 8 which binds together the middle and lower plies of the fabric, is woven into the single ply extension 10 instead of being woven into the middle ply which forms part of the extension 9 as illustrated in Fig. 4c. It will be seen that the exposed surface of the thin extension 10, although said extension is not made of two interwoven plies of fabric, will present an appearance substantially the same as the appearance of the main interwoven portion of the collar. This is true because the interwca-ve thread 8 is woven into the thin extension 10.

In order to give the collar a greater degree of stiffness, and also to provide the edges with a weave which has the same appearance on both sides of the collar, so that the frontcorners of the collar may be turned down to form the well known tips or wings, the fabric may, for example, be woven as illustrated in Figs. 6 and 8. These fiigures show a four ply fabric in which the same or similar parts are indicated by the same reference numerals as in 1 to 5, but with the letter a appended thereto. By weaving both of the extensions forming the divided edge of the four ply fabric so that each extension comprises a two ply inter-- woven fabric, and by using the same weave and interweave in the two ply extensions as in the main four ply interwoven portion, these extensions will have the same appearance on both sides as the main portion of the collar. By turning in the edges and stitching them, for example, as illustrated in Fig. 8, the collar will have the same appearance on both sides at its edges. The front corners of the collar may now. be turned down and the outer exposed edges of the turn down tips or wings will presenta finished and pleasing appearance similar to that of the main portion of the collar. The wings may be folded back and made to remain in a folded position by creasing the folded edge of the wing with a hot iron or the like.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 9 to 12 inclusive, is a collar of the turn down or folding type, and is made up of the neckband portion 14: and the folding or turn down portiOn 15, separated by a fold portion 16. The neckband has the usual buttonholes 17. One suitable form of weave is illustrated in Figs. d and 11. The Weave of Fig. 4. has been described in connection with the stand-up collar, and it will be seen that this fabric is applicable to a folding or turn down collar.

A suitable fabric from which the collar may be cut is illustrated in Fig. 10. This fabric is woven with a curvilinear weave so that the central fold portion 16 will be curvilinear. This fold portion is a weakened foldor fold of increased flexibility made, for example, by omitting the interweave or by omitting some of the longitudinal threads. The fabric illustrated is woven with rectangular portions 17 and 18, which form the greater portions of the neckband and folding portion, respectively, of the collar blank. The outer edges 19 and 20 of the fabric are woven as divided. edges, while the portions 21 at the ends of interwoven portions 17 and 18 are woven with a tubular weave. One side of the tubular portions 21 and one side of the divided edges 19 and 20 are of two ply interwoven fabric as illustrated at 9 in Fig. 4, while the other side of the tubular portion 21 and the other side of the divided edges 19 and 20* are of single ply fabric as illustrated at 10 in Fig. i or as illustrated at 10 in Fig. 13. By cutting out the col lar blank of the shape illustrated in Fig. 10 it will be seen that the collar blank has a divided edge entirely around it. This edge then turned in and stitched, for example, as illustrated in Fig. 11, by two rows of stitching 11.

It will thus be seen that the main portion of the collar on both sides of the fold line is of three ply interwoven fabric, while the entire edge of the collar and the end tabs are of the two integral extensions of the heavy fabric, one of which is also m'ul tiple ply interwoven fabric. Accordingly, although the collar may extend a short distance from, the main interwoven portion of the collar, for example, at the parts indicated at 22 in Fig. 10, yet these extensions will, at least, on one side of the collar have the same appearance as the main interwoven portion and have such a degree of stiffness, due to the interweaving of one side of the fabric of the extensions, that the collar will be free from a flimsy appearance at these portions, as well as at the end tabs.

In order to make the collar reversible, so that it may be worn when folded in either direction, both of the extensions of the divided edge may be woven with a weave of the same appearance as the main interwoven portion. Such a construction is illustrated. in Figs. 6 and 12 and also in Fig. 13. In Figs. 6 and 12 is illustrated a four ply interwoven fabric, in which at the end portions two extensions of the main portion are formed. said extensions each consisting of a two ply interwoven fabric. By turning in the edges of a collar blank cut from this fabric and stitching them, for example, as illustrated in Fig. 12, the collar will have the same appearance on both sides at its edges. If the collar is also provided with a fold line, such as that illustrated, that is, a weakened fold or fold portion of increased flexibility, the collar is reversible and can be folded with equal facility either way and will have the same appearance at its edges whichever way it is folded. Moreover, the forming of both of the extensions of two ply interwoven fabric gives a sufficient stiff ness to the edge so that it presents substantially the same appearance as if made entirely of four ply interwoven fabric, except for a slightly increased thickness where the edges are turned in and stitched.

if the collar illustrated in Fig. 9 is made of the fabric shown in Fig. 13, which fabric has been previously described, the collar so made will be reversible so far as the appearance of the edges is concerned, but it will be obvious that the extension 10" will not have a degree of stiffness comparable with that of the extension 10 illustrated in Fig. 6.

While I have illustrated the collar fabric as three ply and four ply interwoven fabric, and with divided edges of the character described, yet it will be understood that the particular weave of the fabric shown is intended to be illustrative rather than limiting, and that other similar weaves of fabric may be used, provided a divided edge, on one or both sides, is woven so that it presents substantially the same appearance as the main portion of the fabric.

It will be understood that my invention is applicable to cuffs as well as to collars. I have illustrated and described in detail my invention as applied to collars, but I wish it to be expressly understood that the disclosure in. the foregoing specification may be utilized in the manufacture of cuffs and that certain of the appended claims are of suiiicient breadth and scope to include cutfs embodying my invention as well as collars.

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and I have no intention, in the use of such terms and expressions of excluding any of the features shown and described, or portions thereof, but recognize that various modifications are possible within the scope of the invention claimed.

I claim:

1. An article of wearing apparel having the main portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric with integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, at least one of said integral extensions having interwcave threads woven therein extending to the edge of the article and presenting a weave of substantially the same appear ance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

2. An article of wearing apparel having the main portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric with integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, at least one of said integral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric extending to the edge of the article and presenting the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

An article of wearing apparel having the main portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric with integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge. the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions having interweave threads woven therein and presenting substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

4. An article of wearing apparel having the main portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric with integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric with a weave presenting the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

5. A standing or stand-up collar having the main portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric with integral extensions of the fabric on all sides forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, at least one of said integral extensions having interweave threads woven therein extending to the edge of the article and presenting substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the collar.

6. A standing or stand-up collar having the main portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric with integral extensions of the fabric on all sides forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions having interweave threads woven therein and presenting substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the collar.

JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN. 

